followup to my own post:
i saw that i was one version behind and i have now updated to 2.5.0b19
this latest version adds an option in the device setup for thermostats that will poll automatically. the only difference i can see between this and the date/time action i was using previously seems to be that the built-in polling does not write anything to the logs.
according to the logs, the applescript "status request <device>" for a thermostat seems to cause four separate status requests: mode, temperature, humidity, and setpoint. and NOT fan mode. a few possibilities come to mind:
a) fan mode is a separate piece of status information that indigo would have to request separately. it is not currently requesting it, which explains why fan mode is not currently being tracked within indigo.
b) fan mode somehow is encoded along with mode. indigo is fetching it but just not updating it currently.
c) fan mode is simply not available via the insteon interface so indigo will never be able to query it. this would be a bit odd because it would mean that they provide a way to set something but not get it.
so as things stand right now, i don't see any way to get the fan status, not even from applescript.
to work around this problem, i could possibly just dispense with ever controlling the fan manually (from the thermostat), but i'd really prefer to be able to get the fan state from within indigo.