Dimmer switch recommendations?

Posted on
Tue Jul 22, 2003 1:43 pm
Guest offline

Dimmer switch recommendations?

I'm looking at comparable two-way dimmer switches from Leviton, SmartLinc, PCS, and Lightolier. The SmartLincs seem to have the best feature set, but questions have been raised about their reliability.

I've decided that for the best feedback and automation, I will be using two-way modules whenever possible. This narrows the field of choices somewhat.

Can anyone share their experiences on these various modules? Thanks!

Posted on
Wed Jul 23, 2003 9:30 am
matt (support) offline
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Re: Dimmer switch recommendations?

Anonymous wrote:
I'm looking at comparable two-way dimmer switches from Leviton, SmartLinc, PCS, and Lightolier. The SmartLincs seem to have the best feature set, but questions have been raised about their reliability.

I've tried them all, and IMO the SwitchLincs have the best features and usability. I also heard initial complaints about reliability, but that was quite a while ago and I believe (hope) they have addressed those problems. I've never had any problems with any of my SwitchLincs, but my small sample would be statistically irrelevant. :-)

I too, would be interested in hearing what others have to say.

regards,
matt

Posted on
Fri Sep 12, 2003 8:14 am
Ewicp offline
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Joined: Jul 08, 2003
Location: Tempe, Arizona

Signal-Sucker?

Greetings.
I just installed a "SwitchLinc 2380W, Powerline Remote Dimmer" in my system. So far, the switch works great. However, now the appliance module that is down stream on the same wire-run will not respond to commands. If I disable the 2380 the app. module works fine. I am assuming that this switch (2380) is one of the dreaded "Signal Suckers".
Anyone know of a way around this? I wish I could relocate the appliance module but that's not possible.
Any help would be appreciated.

Eric

Posted on
Fri Sep 12, 2003 9:04 am
matt (support) offline
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Re: Signal-Sucker?

Ewicp wrote:
Anyone know of a way around this? I wish I could relocate the appliance module but that's not possible.

Hi Eric,

The 2380 is the 2-way switch, which means that it is also an X10 transmitter. Each X10 transmitter will, as you mentioned, reduce the signal strength of other X10 transmitters.

You can try to improve signal strength/quality throughout the house (repeater/amplifier if you don't already have one) or locally near the circuit that is causing having problems (SmartHome BoosterLinc). If you don't have a repeater/amplifier, then I'd suggest this route. Although they require circuit breaker box installation, they greatly improve signal quality and strength throughout the home.

The other option is to not use a 2-way switch in this case. You can try to disable the "Switch transmitting" checkbox in the devices dialog (press the download button after you uncheck it). I don't think this will help -- it will cause the switch to not transmit local changes back to Indigo, but I believe the switch will still reduce your signal level. I'm not positive tough, so it is worth trying. Or you can replace this switch with a 1-way receive only SwitchLinc. Either one of these (one is scene capable, the other is not):

http://www.smarthome.com/2384.html
http://www.smarthome.com/2386.html

If you go this route, instead of returning your 2-way switch you could try using it somewhere else. It might be the case that the current circuit path with your 2-way switch and appliance module is a particularly bad combination. Moving the 2-way switch somewhere else might solve the problem.

Good luck!

regards,
matt

Posted on
Sun Nov 02, 2003 2:26 pm
wikner offline
Posts: 181
Joined: Nov 02, 2003

Re: choice of dimmers

I spent about $3000 installing SwitchLinks throughout my house. Immediately the "signal sucking" problem occured (unfortunately this problem had not been recognized or published at the time). Besides that problem, several switches failed in various ways, including inability to turn on, frozen on, nonresponse to all commands, reset on after being manually turned off (this was a great one; you turned off the switch, it would stay off for about 1 second, then the light would come back on). This rendered all X-10 in my house inoperable. I disconnected my controllers and gave up on X-10 for 2 years.

I kind of ran out of money for fixing this. I just recently pulled them all out and "downgraded" to Leviton switches (alas, no presets, no scenes, no feedback). At least it all (mostly) works. I still have problems getting the signal to all parts of the house despite the fact that I have installed an X-10 external blocker/signal bridge, and a whole house surge suppressor.

What I really would like someone to make is a powerline internet adaptor and switches and sensors that know TCP/IP.

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